
Most dogs take several days to adjust to a new home. In many cases, our families notice ongoing adjustments over the next several weeks and even months. Since most Labs are very adaptable and easygoing, this process of acclimatization is usually straightforward. Recognizing that there is a process of adjustment over a period of time, however, will help you understand your dog's changes in behavior.
We encourage you to observe your new pet closely and make adjustments as needed. If you have additional questions and concerns over the next few weeks, please don't hesitate to call us. For that matter, don't hesitate to call or write to us at any time.
Each dog has a different reaction to being placed in a new home. Some dogs are "depressed" and do little until they absorb the tempo of their new home and start participating. Other dogs display an excess of nervous energy for the first week or so. Both of these reactions (and others in between) are normal.
Get into a routine as soon as possible. A steady schedule is very comforting to most dogs, and helps speed up adjustment. Try to get up and go to sleep at the same times, have him sleep in the same place at night, feed him at the same times, come home from work at the same times, walk him at the same times, etc. Your new Labrador will begin to relax once he knows what to expect in your home.
Sit down with other members of your household and make sure everyone is in agreement on the basic rules. For example, whether or not he can get on the furniture, if there is a room he should stay out of, etc. Make sure everyone knows what these rules are, and then enforce them from day one. You don't have to be mean or nasty in your corrections. Just a firm "No" at normal volume will do. Try to make it easy to be good initially; if he's not allowed in a specific room, just keep the door shut for a while until he's more settled in.
Just because your dog has had many drastic changes in his life over the last few days or weeks, don't take pity on him and let him get away with things. That's the last thing your dog needs. Provide him with structure and consistency. Expect good behavior from him and don't make excuses for him. At the same time, minimize chances for him to get into mischief to make this entire transition period easier. If you are indulgent with your dog now, he may well wind up running your household to your dismay!
It goes without saying that we recommend you take your dog in to the vet for a thorough checkup that can serve as a baseline for later. Most of our dogs do not have any prior medical history, especially when turned in as strays to shelters. We will give you copies of all medical records that we acquired on the dog that you adopt; if you do not obtain this at the time of adoption, you may write to us (see address below) requesting copies. It sometimes takes us a little while to collect all the records from the different people who participated in the dog's rescue.
Kennel cough starts out with a cough. Like the human flu, it can be of varying severity. Also like the flu, the bordetella vaccination does not completely protect against kennel cough because it is really a variety of closely related mutating viruses. However, like the flu shot, it can prevent some cases of kennel cough and make actual cases more mild than otherwise. We highly recommend that you vaccinate your dog (and others you may already have) against kennel cough along with the usual DHLPP and Rabies series.
Remember that young children and dogs should always be supervised. Especially young children may not behave appropriately around a dog (poking eyes, pulling tails), and some dogs may jump up on children and accidentally frighten them.
Don't expect your children to be responsible for your dog's care. A dog can be a good way to teach responsibility to a child, but you will still ultimately be responsible if the child does not do his part. You should, however, involve your child (or children) in caring for the dog. Have them help you fill the food dish, or help you groom or exercise the dog. Involving children in obedience training is an especially good idea.
There will often be a certain amount of posturing and even some snapping or growling. In most cases, these "dustups" are over almost before they begin and in these cases you need not worry. If a fight does break out, pull the dogs apart as quickly as you can do so safely, taking care not to get bitten in the process, and crate or isolate them. Do not ignore any posturing: observe carefully and see how they are resolved.
Separate the dogs during the adjustment period while you are gone unless it's very clear that the dogs are enjoying each other's company. If they are still a little tense or "depressed" (quiet) then slowly increase the time they spend together, to give them time for adjustments.
Be sure to spend plenty of time with all your dogs. Your older dogs may become jealous of the newcomer if he takes up all your time.
If over time it becomes apparent that two dogs are continually jostling for "alpha" (top dog) position with each other, you may have to step in. Determine which dog is normally dominant (do not be sentimental and assume it is the first dog you had that is top -- watch them carefully to determine their demeanor). Once you know which dog is the dominant one, start reinforcing that dog's position. Dogs are not as concerned with "equality" as people are. They are more reassured by clear ranking -- especially dogs that are squabbling over position. To reinforce the dominant dog, feed that dog first. Pet that dog first. Let that dog outside to the backyard first, and let it inside first. Greet the dominant dog first when you come home. Always pay attention to the subordinate dog, but only after you have done so with the dominant dog. This will go a long way toward resolving minor but persistent fights. We don't expect this to happen very often, however, as Labrador Retrievers as a breed are pretty relaxed about ranking.
Most Labradors can be taught to leave cats alone. Few can resist a cat that runs from them, however. By keeping your dog on leash indoors for a while, you can prevent "the chase" from becoming a habit. Once he no longer races after the cat, then work on transferring his attention to you: distract him, use food if you have to, whatever it takes for him to voluntarily look at you even when the cat is in view. Praise thoroughly. You do not want to always punish him for looking at the cat because that will reinforce the thought that cats are bad (and therefore should be chased down and dealt with).
Note that it is not unusual for a Labrador to tolerate "his" cat but to immediately and mercilessly chase any other cat out of your backyard or to lunge after strange cats seen on walks.
Obedience training enhances the relationship between dog and owner. Most dogs love the extra attention and the chance to show you what they can learn!
Southern California Labrador Retriever Rescue, Inc. *
PO Box 4859, Irvine CA 92616-4859
http://www.geocities.com/~sclrr * 1-888-55-4ALAB