Foster Care For Dogs

Fostering: Getting Involved

What kind of training do I need?

Ideally, a foster volunteer should have some general experience with dogs. You should be familiar with basic dog care and training. A home visit by a volunteer is a necessity, just to make sure you have secure fencing and to answer any questions you have. It helps see your set up for dogs too so we can place a foster dog that will be suitable for you. Some foster reps. have an outdoor kennel run, a dog crate, doggie door, side yard or none of these. For Southern California Labrador Retriever Rescue fostering, you should have some knowledge of the Labrador Retriever.

Where will my foster dogs come from?

SCLRRescue is an established organization to work with. Rescue can be a tricky business, emotionally, legally, and logistically. It is much easier and safer because you have our organization to to help you. SCLRRescue already has adoption contracts, reimbursement and other policies and other legal issues in place.

What kinds of dogs will I foster?

You could get dogs of all ages, temperaments, and backgrounds. Puppies, adolescents, and seniors; abandoned pets, shelter dogs that were either strays or dumped by their owners and puppy mill rescues are all possibilities.

Regardless of the source, you will have some dogs that will be a challenge to foster. Some of them might have behavior problems that led to their surrender. Others might be sick. Many will not be housetrained. But there will also be dogs that are sweet, well behaved, housetrained, and fun to have around.

What should I do before bringing the foster home?

First, you should make sure your own dogs are reasonably protected from common diseases. Your dogs should have Rabies, DHLPP and Bordatella (kennel cough) vaccinations. Your foster should also be vaccinated for Rabies, DHLPP and Bordatella before you bring him home. It isn't fair (or wise) to unnecessarily risk your own pets' health.

SCLRRescue provides collars and ID tags for the foster dog. Some shelters will also implant a microchip ID. We have vets that will microchip for us and also some of our own volunteers are trained to microchip. Remember that this dog doesn't know you yet and might try to escape. Better safe than sorry!

You will have to treat the new dog like a puppy at first. Puppy-proof the house before he arrives. If he is young or has not been raised in a house, he might be destructive and not housetrained. You should set up a crate for him, preferably with no bedding. If you do use bedding it should be easily cleaned or disposable (like old towels). If you choose not to use a crate, you should have a small, dog-safe room (like a laundry room) for when you cannot watch the dog.

How do I introduce the foster to the resident animals?

Usually we have already found out about whether the dog gets along with other dogs and cats. You should introduce the dogs in a controlled -- but not too controlled -- setting. By this, I mean the dogs should be safely contained and should have leashes attached in case you need to separate them. But you should not intervene more than necessary while they are getting to know one another. Unless you have reason to suspect bloodshed, you should basically let the dogs work it out for themselves.

Expect to see some posturing and growling. It will be mostly noise, and usually sounds much worse than it really is. The dogs are trying to determine the pack order. Most likely, your own dogs will try to establish dominance, regardless of their size. The fosters accept it!

After a few days, the dogs might begin to play with each other. If not, they will usually at least tolerate each other's presence. Even if the dogs seem to get along, it's a good idea to keep them separated when you are not around to keep an eye on things. I wouldn't want to foster dogs without having a large, sturdy crate available, separately fenced area or a kennel run just in case.

If you have cats or other small animals, please be careful. Have the dog on leash when you introduce him to the kitty. Have plenty of safe, dog-free retreats for your cat. Baby gates are good because your cat can jump over (or sneak under) them. Be sure the cat's food and litter box are in a dog-free zone, or you might find that your beloved kitty is not eating or going to the bathroom because it's trying to avoid the scary new dog! (Yes, I learned from experience.) Above all, never leave them alone together!

What are my responsibilities?

You will need to provide basic care such as food, water, shelter and exercise. You'll probably need to give the dog a bath when it arrives, and be sure to check for fleas and ticks. If the dog is sick, you might have to give medication. It is also a good idea to do some training. Basic manners such as appropriate greeting behavior, walking nicely on a leash, and coming when called are all important. Housetraining is an essential skill for the dog to master. Crate training is useful, especially for young, destructive, or un-housetrained dogs. You might make the dog more appealing to potential adopters by teaching a fun trick, like shake hands or sitting up.

The most important thing you need to provide is love! Whether your foster came from a loving home or a situation where he was ignored most of the time, he will be confused and anxious. Spend time cuddling, fetching, and just hanging out watching TV together. Be patient; it might take him a few days or weeks to settle in.

How do I find permanent homes for my fosters?

SCLRRescue has a very organized and efficient system of email lists to communicate on and a utilities database where we have access to information to help us make a good match for the dog. A picture is placed on the web site (WWW.SCLRR.org) along with a biography of the dog for our approved adoptive families and for the general public to see. There are volunteers that represent and approve adoptive families that will help you match and place your foster.

Some dogs will only be with you for a few days. Others will be around for a few weeks, and you might start to wonder if they will live with you forever. Be patient. The right home will come in time.

How do I know my limits?

Most of us would like to be able to rescue every Labrador Retriever that needs help. Realize that you can't save them all. Learn to say no! You have other commitments that must take precedence at times -- family, job, your own pets. If you try to do too much, you will burn out. You will need to be selective about which dogs you will take, and realistic about how many you can keep at one time. Above all, don't feel bad about wanting some time off between fosters. You deserve it.

Most of us can only take one at a time. I like to take a few days off after placing a dog, especially if I have had him for a long time. It gives me time to catch up, clean up, organize and feel refreshed, relaxed and ready for the next Lab that needs me.

Then again, getting a new foster always helps to heal the pain of giving up the last one...

Who do I contact?

If you are interested in fostering a Labrador for Southern California Labrador Retriever Rescue, there are three ways you can contact us. Our web site address is WWW.SCLRR.org, the email address is SCLRR@SCLRR.org and the phone number is 888-554-2522. Just let us know that you're interested and a volunteer will contact you to answer any questions you may have.

Southern California Labrador Retriever Rescue, Inc.
24325 Crenshaw Blvd. #137 Torrance, CA 90505
http://www.sclrr.org * 888-554-ALAB
sclrr@sclrr.org
02/05/12 at 1:57 (CST)